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11-18-2014, 05:14 PM,
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243
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Hi all,
What are your thoughts about 243 cal.? I have a Ruger American in that and it is very accurate (6" at 100 yds). I figure if the SHTF, it would be good for small game and such. For now, just plinking.
When I bought the rifle, I chose a caliber that would be readily available, during the ammo scare. I already have a Mosin so that should cover me on the larger cal.
Thanks.
What are your thoughts about 243 cal.? I have a Ruger American in that and it is very accurate (6" at 100 yds). I figure if the SHTF, it would be good for small game and such. For now, just plinking.
When I bought the rifle, I chose a caliber that would be readily available, during the ammo scare. I already have a Mosin so that should cover me on the larger cal.
Thanks.
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11-18-2014, 05:33 PM,
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RE: 243
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The .243 is a great, flat shooting platform, capable of taking medium size game like antelope and whitetail deer. It is extremely accurate, but not the most readily available ammo all the time, and in some parts of the country would be hard to find even during hunting season. For a SHTF type situation, I would consider .223/5.56 (which is what the AR15 is chambered for). There are many good options in both bolt and semi auto to pick from and will be readily available wherever you find yourself.
Your .243 is a great gun, however stock up on ammo whenever you see it (just in case)!
Your .243 is a great gun, however stock up on ammo whenever you see it (just in case)!
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11-18-2014, 07:47 PM,
(This post was last modified: 11-18-2014, 07:51 PM by Ammo Lynn.)
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RE: 243
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11-18-2014, 07:47 PM
(This post was last modified: 11-18-2014, 07:51 PM by Ammo Lynn.)
I load custom ammo for that rifle for deer and even prairie dogs. 6" at 100 yds is not surprising with factory ammo. When you shoot ammo tuned to the gun (taking the barrel harmonics) into account and set to the proper length so nothing gets past the bullet as it leaves the case mouth but before it plugs the bore, your extreme spread in velocity goes from over 100 feet per second to less than 10 and all of a sudden, holes are touching each other at 100 yds.. When you shoot, save your brass as it can be reloaded at least 4-6 times. Drop me a line if you would like to explore some options with that rifle, its very comfortable to shoot and wonderfully accurate..
Lynn
Or... Learn to reload and enjoy to satisfaction of making the ammo that works so well in the gun..
Lynn
Or... Learn to reload and enjoy to satisfaction of making the ammo that works so well in the gun..
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11-18-2014, 11:28 PM,
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RE: 243
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.243 is one caliber I have never shot. I have shot the Remington 700 in .270 and thought that was a great flat shooting cartridge. How would you compare the two. The .270 is pretty popular down in Texas. As for SHTF Steve is right, I'd stick with .556/.223 or .308. Other rifle ammo might be hard to come by, even 30-06. I'd imagine the Russian stuff would dry up pretty fast (7.62x54R) and then the 7.62x39. Is there anything special about reloading .243 or .270 that would be different or to look out for? I am still a real noobie at reloading, but so far every round I have done has gone bang (only .308, .223 and .45acp).
"An unarmed man can only flee from evil, and evil is not overcome by fleeing from it." -Col. Jeff Cooper
"An unarmed man can only flee from evil, and evil is not overcome by fleeing from it." -Col. Jeff Cooper
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11-19-2014, 09:17 AM,
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RE: 243
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The .243 shoots with slightly more recoil than a .223 Rem so its ideal as a first gun for young deer hunters or for prairie dog work where you will likely be shooting a lot of rounds. The .243 has it's own things to be careful of.
1) Chambers are long, you have to measure them and set bullets back 0.030 for conventional and 0.050 for copper. The Ruger American chambers are usually about 0.1 longer than the 2.710 max OAL SAMMI publishes. If yours is shorter all the better.
2) Weigh your processed and head stamp sorted brass. Similar weight means similar ignition volume which equates to consistent velocity shot to shot. I have seen lots of variation with the same head stamp and it shows up on a target at 200 yds. 0.5 Gr variance is my limit on .243.
3) Use Match primers, the length to diameter ratio of the .243 is more extreme than .270 or .30-06 so the initial ignition profile of the powder is a bit more critical, thus the more consistent match primer really helps.
4) The most important issue is the twist rate of your barrel. The slower the twist the lighter the bullet you have to use in order for it to stabilize. If you have a gun with a 12" twist rate you will be loading 75 gr or lighter bullets and running 3400 fps or better. 10" twist can load the heavier bullets which are great for 350 yd shooting.
5) Stay away from slow burning powders, run faster powders only. The problem is that length to diameter ratio in the powder charge in the case. The slow burning powder builds pressure fast in light loads. The bullet does not get away from the case mouth soon enough and the gun will overpressure. I know it seems strange to overpressure with light loads but this one is well know for it, so load warm and fast not light and slow.
1) Chambers are long, you have to measure them and set bullets back 0.030 for conventional and 0.050 for copper. The Ruger American chambers are usually about 0.1 longer than the 2.710 max OAL SAMMI publishes. If yours is shorter all the better.
2) Weigh your processed and head stamp sorted brass. Similar weight means similar ignition volume which equates to consistent velocity shot to shot. I have seen lots of variation with the same head stamp and it shows up on a target at 200 yds. 0.5 Gr variance is my limit on .243.
3) Use Match primers, the length to diameter ratio of the .243 is more extreme than .270 or .30-06 so the initial ignition profile of the powder is a bit more critical, thus the more consistent match primer really helps.
4) The most important issue is the twist rate of your barrel. The slower the twist the lighter the bullet you have to use in order for it to stabilize. If you have a gun with a 12" twist rate you will be loading 75 gr or lighter bullets and running 3400 fps or better. 10" twist can load the heavier bullets which are great for 350 yd shooting.
5) Stay away from slow burning powders, run faster powders only. The problem is that length to diameter ratio in the powder charge in the case. The slow burning powder builds pressure fast in light loads. The bullet does not get away from the case mouth soon enough and the gun will overpressure. I know it seems strange to overpressure with light loads but this one is well know for it, so load warm and fast not light and slow.
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11-20-2014, 09:04 AM,
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RE: 243
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Lynn, this is the type of information that any novice reloader would love to know. But it now brings up another question, do such variations exist in .308?
All my weapons can shoot either .308 Winchester or 7.62x51 Nato. Are there some firearms where these are not interchangeable? Also, my HK91 chews up brass to a degree. It leaves serations along the cartridge running vertically from the the neck, shoulder and case. Before I added a plastic ejector port deflector it used to crease the case with a big dent. I am pretty sure these serations are being caused by the fluted chamber. All the casing with dents I have discarded. However, I have kept the ones with just these serations.
Can these be reloaded? The casings appear undamaged other than these marks. Can they be reloaded more than once? I don't see any tiny cracks or other issues along the casings. Will these serations present issues when shot again from the HK91? Will a second set cause an issue?
"An unarmed man can only flee from evil, and evil is not overcome by fleeing from it." -Col. Jeff Cooper
All my weapons can shoot either .308 Winchester or 7.62x51 Nato. Are there some firearms where these are not interchangeable? Also, my HK91 chews up brass to a degree. It leaves serations along the cartridge running vertically from the the neck, shoulder and case. Before I added a plastic ejector port deflector it used to crease the case with a big dent. I am pretty sure these serations are being caused by the fluted chamber. All the casing with dents I have discarded. However, I have kept the ones with just these serations.
Can these be reloaded? The casings appear undamaged other than these marks. Can they be reloaded more than once? I don't see any tiny cracks or other issues along the casings. Will these serations present issues when shot again from the HK91? Will a second set cause an issue?
"An unarmed man can only flee from evil, and evil is not overcome by fleeing from it." -Col. Jeff Cooper
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11-20-2014, 09:41 AM,
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RE: 243
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I would need to see a close up picture of the serrations. I am not familiar with a fluted chamber, that sounds like real trouble to me. If the cases are not cracked you should be able to reload them but again I would want to see a picture.
To a degree a .308 is like a .243 but not as sensitive to slow burning powder as the .243 in light loads. We generally run powder charges around 40 gr in the .308 and my experience has been there is more accuracy in the middle to just under the middle of the load range in .308's where with the .243, we find those sweet spots (harmonically) above the middle of the load range, thus we load them warm to hot.
To a degree a .308 is like a .243 but not as sensitive to slow burning powder as the .243 in light loads. We generally run powder charges around 40 gr in the .308 and my experience has been there is more accuracy in the middle to just under the middle of the load range in .308's where with the .243, we find those sweet spots (harmonically) above the middle of the load range, thus we load them warm to hot.
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