Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
How I did the latest upgrade for my AK pattern C39
07-22-2015, 06:13 PM, (This post was last modified: 07-22-2015, 06:34 PM by rwhite135.)
#1
How I did the latest upgrade for my AK pattern C39
**
Posts: 607
Threads: 35
Joined: Jan 2015
Reputation: 0
#1
This time around I upgraded the hammer spring from the simple wire spring that Century used to a wound spring used in Russian AKs and made by Kalashnikov Concern. These were imported before the ban and Rob Ski over at AK Operators Union, 47-74 managed to get his hands on some of them for in his store. For anyone interested in getting one he has a special on them $9.95 with free shipping.

http://shop.akoperatorsunionlocal4774.co...Spring.htm

Back to the subject at hand, I have posted a picture of what the old spring looked like before in the thread about the upgrading to a FCG retainer plate. Here it is again for comparison's sake:

[Image: C39_%20Internals.jpg]

and here's what the rifle looks like from a different angle with the new spring installed:

[Image: Russian_hammer_spring_installed.jpg]

This upgrade is a little more involved than the last one was and if your rifle already has a double wound spring you don't need to do it.

First you have to break the rifle down like for the last upgrade. Do not remove the bolt carrier during this upgrade. Leaving it in makes replacing the hammer much easier.

You then have to remove the pins that hold in the FCG. This is done from the right side of the receiver and can be done with a phillips screwdriver or a long thin punch. Just push them out from the right until you can grab them with your left hand and pull them out the rest of the way.

Do the trigger pin first. Once it is out you need to have a pair of needle nose pliers. This can be a standard pair or the ones that are part of a multi-tool. I like having a multi-tool on hand when working on my rifle. What you want to do with the pliers is grab the legs of the spring that go over the trigger bars. You want to pull them up and hook them on the hammer or the sides of the receiver. Be careful that they are secured because if they come loose they will snap back down with enough force that if they hit your hand or fingers can mean a trip to the ER.

Once that is done you can remove the trigger. If yours isn't a single stage trigger (the G2 used in most rifles is, as is Century's RAK-1) be careful you don't lose the spring that goes in there.

From here return the legs of the hammer spring back to their prior positions. Then remove the hammer's pin. This will allow you to remove the hammer. It is a good idea before removing the pin to take a picture of the hammer's position in the rifle using a smart phone or tablet for reference later on.

Once you have the hammer out take another picture of the hammer so you have a reference image of how the spring should be on there.

The spring just slips off the two posts that it sits on but it can take some muscle to get them to cooperate.

Before you put on the new spring, if getting the one above, you will have to give it a good cleaning because it will be coated in cosmoline. A small bowl of Dawn combined with the "toothbrush" from an AR cleaning kit or a deluxe firearms cleaning kit will work as would a standard old toothbrush. Once you have it cleaned add just a smidge of gun oil to the spring, not so much to lubricate it but for rust prevention.

Once you have it cleaned, use your reference picture of how the old spring was installed to install the new one. If you put the spring on wrong your rifle will be an expensive paper weight.

Once you have the new spring on the hammer you can start putting things back in. This is going to require a little more muscle and patience than the removal process because the hammer won't always want to cooperate. This is why you leave the bolt carrier in. You can use it as a rest for the hammer as you move it into position to get the pin in place. Once the hammer is in place the rest is just as simple as the removal process was. Again, be careful with the legs of the spring and especially now since the ones on the Russian spring are stronger than those on the original spring.

If it seems I missed anything or if you have any questions let me know.

http://shop.akoperatorsunionlocal4774.co...Spring.htm

Back to the subject at hand, I have posted a picture of what the old spring looked like before in the thread about the upgrading to a FCG retainer plate. Here it is again for comparison's sake:

[Image: C39_%20Internals.jpg]

and here's what the rifle looks like from a different angle with the new spring installed:

[Image: Russian_hammer_spring_installed.jpg]

This upgrade is a little more involved than the last one was and if your rifle already has a double wound spring you don't need to do it.

First you have to break the rifle down like for the last upgrade. Do not remove the bolt carrier during this upgrade. Leaving it in makes replacing the hammer much easier.

You then have to remove the pins that hold in the FCG. This is done from the right side of the receiver and can be done with a phillips screwdriver or a long thin punch. Just push them out from the right until you can grab them with your left hand and pull them out the rest of the way.

Do the trigger pin first. Once it is out you need to have a pair of needle nose pliers. This can be a standard pair or the ones that are part of a multi-tool. I like having a multi-tool on hand when working on my rifle. What you want to do with the pliers is grab the legs of the spring that go over the trigger bars. You want to pull them up and hook them on the hammer or the sides of the receiver. Be careful that they are secured because if they come loose they will snap back down with enough force that if they hit your hand or fingers can mean a trip to the ER.

Once that is done you can remove the trigger. If yours isn't a single stage trigger (the G2 used in most rifles is, as is Century's RAK-1) be careful you don't lose the spring that goes in there.

From here return the legs of the hammer spring back to their prior positions. Then remove the hammer's pin. This will allow you to remove the hammer. It is a good idea before removing the pin to take a picture of the hammer's position in the rifle using a smart phone or tablet for reference later on.

Once you have the hammer out take another picture of the hammer so you have a reference image of how the spring should be on there.

The spring just slips off the two posts that it sits on but it can take some muscle to get them to cooperate.

Before you put on the new spring, if getting the one above, you will have to give it a good cleaning because it will be coated in cosmoline. A small bowl of Dawn combined with the "toothbrush" from an AR cleaning kit or a deluxe firearms cleaning kit will work as would a standard old toothbrush. Once you have it cleaned add just a smidge of gun oil to the spring, not so much to lubricate it but for rust prevention.

Once you have it cleaned, use your reference picture of how the old spring was installed to install the new one. If you put the spring on wrong your rifle will be an expensive paper weight.

Once you have the new spring on the hammer you can start putting things back in. This is going to require a little more muscle and patience than the removal process because the hammer won't always want to cooperate. This is why you leave the bolt carrier in. You can use it as a rest for the hammer as you move it into position to get the pin in place. Once the hammer is in place the rest is just as simple as the removal process was. Again, be careful with the legs of the spring and especially now since the ones on the Russian spring are stronger than those on the original spring.

If it seems I missed anything or if you have any questions let me know.
Reply
Find
Reply


Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)

Contact Us | Red Dot Arms Forum | Return to Top | | Lite (Archive) Mode | RSS Syndication